Hoang Su Phi – Travel guide to the rice terraces

Best things to do in Hoang Su Phi

1. Trekking through terraced rice fields

The main highlight of Hoang Su Phi is its stunning terraced rice fields, considered the best in the country. Embark on a trekking adventure to fully immerse yourself in the beauty of the landscape. Consider a multi-day trek with a local guide, allowing you to witness the changing scenery and stay in homestays along the way for an authentic experience.

2. Visit villages of ethnic minorities

Explore the villages inhabited by ethnic minority groups in the area. These communities have distinct cultures, traditions, and clothing styles. Observe the locals working in the fields, interact with them, and gain insights into their traditional way of life. It’s an opportunity to learn about their customs, festivals, food, and even their unique languages.

3. Stay in a local homestay

Enhance your cultural immersion by staying in a local homestay. This intimate experience allows you to witness firsthand how the ethnic minorities live. You can observe their cooking methods, explore their homes, and engage in conversations to learn more about their daily lives. Keep in mind that accommodations in Hoang Su Phi are often basic, but the experience is invaluable.

4. Hoang Su Phi Market

Pay a visit to the vibrant Hoang Su Phi Market, held every Sunday in the main town of Vinh Quang. This bustling market is where locals from surrounding villages gather to trade their products, purchase essentials, and socialize. Admire the traditional clothing worn by the women, soak in the lively atmosphere, and get a glimpse of the local trading culture.

5. Climbing mountains

Hoang Su Phi is home to two prominent mountains in Ha Giang. Tay Con Linh, the highest peak in Northeast Vietnam, stands at 2,419 meters and offers breathtaking views from its summit. Chieu Lau Thi, known as the “nine-storey mountain,” is located 42 km from Hoang Su Phi and reaches a height of 2,402 meters. Climbing these mountains provides an opportunity to marvel at the surrounding landscapes and appreciate the natural beauty of the region.

Best time to visit Hoang Su Phi

Hoang Su Phi is a remarkable destination throughout the year, boasting its high mountains, terraced rice fields, authentic local villages, and a captivating cultural experience. However, the most enchanting time to explore Hoang Su Phi is during the harvest season, when the rice fields transform into vibrant shades of gold and yellow.

Rice season

• April – May: Planting season, with submerged fields creating a breathtaking mirror effect.
• June – August: Rice growth season, when the fields flourish in lush green.
• September – October: Harvesting season, witnessing the fields turn into a mesmerizing golden yellow, while ethnic minorities actively engage in the rice fields.

Best time to visit Hoang Su Phi: August and September for the rice harvest, and May for the stunning mirroring effect.

Best weather

For the most favorable weather conditions, plan your visit between October and November, or from March to May. During these periods, you can expect minimal rainfall, clear blue skies, and pleasant temperatures. It’s a great balance between avoiding extreme heat during summer months and chilly weather during winter.

Best terraced rice fields in Hoang Su Phi

Hoang Su Phi is renowned for its breathtaking terraced rice fields, considered the most stunning in Vietnam. The area’s towering mountains contribute to the impressive height of these terraced fields. Hoang Su Phi is a district comprising six communes: Ban Luoc, Ho Thau, San Sa Ho, Ban Phung, Thong Nguyen, and Nam Ty, all located within Ha Giang province.

Here is a guide to discovering the best terraced rice fields in Hoang Su Phi:

1. Ban Phung

Situated near the Chinese border, Ban Phung is accessible by traversing a small pass approximately 30 km long from the center of Vinh Quang town, leading to the heart of the commune. The terraced fields in Ban Phung are nestled on steep mountain slopes, as there are no extensive valleys. Along with Ban Luoc, this area boasts the highest terraced fields in Vietnam. You can also explore ancient tombs belonging to the La Chi ethnic group.

2. Ho Thau

Ho Thau, located around 16 km from the Nam Dich commune junction, is home to terraced fields cultivated by the Red Dao ethnic group. A fascinating custom practiced here is leaving a small forested area around each field to prevent soil erosion. The cultivation work in these fields follows a top-down approach, utilizing simple tools like pickaxes, wooden harrows, shovels, and knives. Ho Thau’s terraced fields stretch across vast expanses with low and even slopes, offering panoramic views.

3. Thong Nguyen

Situated on the left bank where the convergence of three major streams occurs (Phin Ho, Nam Ong, and Nam Khoa), Thong Nguyen forms a plain in the midst of the mountains. It is one of the must-visit places to witness the beauty of Hoang Su Phi’s terraced fields. The most picturesque section, ideal for photography, can be found around km24 along the road from Bac Quang to Hoang Su Phi. You can also explore Nam Hong village, home to the Red Dao ethnic group.

4. Ban Luoc & San Sa Ho

Ban Luoc and San Sa Ho communes feature mountainous terrain with moderate slopes, resulting in numerous terraced fields. These areas showcase wave-like and bow-shaped terraced fields, predominantly cultivated by the Ao Dai and Nung ethnic groups.

5. Nam Ty

Located at km 24 on the road from Bac Quang to Hoang Su Phi, Nam Ty’s terraced fields are owned by the Red Dao people. They are recognized as National Monuments of Hoang Su Phi’s terraced fields and offer captivating vistas for you to enjoy.

Where to stay

Type of accommodation

Hoang Su Phi is very off the beaten track and it sees mostly only during harvest season travelers, most of them photography enthousiast. Rest of the year not many people explore this area. This also means that there has never been realy a development for tourism. The few hotels and homestays you find here are often very basic and expect hard matrasses.

Homestays: Staying with ethnic minorities in traditional homestays is a remarkable and authentic experience. While these accommodations may lack comfort and amenities, they provide a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the local culture.

Hotels: There are a few basic hotels in Hoang Su Phi that offer slightly more comfort compared to homestays. However, it is important to set realistic expectations as the emphasis is on simplicity rather than luxury.

Lodges & Retreats: There are very few lodges and retreats in the area, and they tend to be more expensive. These options provide the highest level of comfort available in Hoang Su Phi.

Locations

Vinh Quang serves as the largest town and capital of Hoang Su Phi District. While there are a few hotels available in town, it is important to manage expectations as the options may be limited in terms of amenities. Additionally, there are local restaurants to cater to dining needs, as well as a weekly ethnic minority market.

For a more immersive and picturesque experience, staying in the countryside is highly recommended. Waking up to breathtaking views of the terraced rice fields adds to the charm of the stay.

Recommended accommodations

When visiting Hoang Su Phi, there are several recommended accommodations to enhance your stay. It’s important to note that many homestays may not be available to book online, as they are not listed on booking websites or Google. Here are some notable options:

1. Panhou Retreat: A renowned retreat nestled in the heart of nature, offering comfortable bungalows and a serene ambiance.
2. Hoang Su Phi Bungalow: A charming accommodation option that provides a cozy and authentic experience amidst the scenic beauty of Hoang Su Phi.
3. Hoang Su Phi Lodge: A well-regarded lodge known for its warm hospitality and convenient location, making it a great base for exploring the region.
4. Riz d’Or Retreat: A delightful retreat that offers a blend of comfort and tranquility, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the natural surroundings.
5. Skyview Khanh Dinh: A unique lodging option providing breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes, promising an unforgettable stay.
6. Nam Ly Retreat: A peaceful retreat set in a picturesque setting, allowing guests to relax and appreciate the beauty of Hoang Su Phi.

How to get to Hoang Su Phi

Getting to Hoang Su Phi can be challenging, as there are no major towns in the district with direct bus connections to Hanoi.

Tour

The easiest option to reach Hoang Su Phi from Hanoi is by tour. You will be picked up from your accommodation in Hanoi and transported directly to your homestay or lodge in Hoang Su Phi.

Exploring this area on your own can be difficult, especially if you plan to go trekking. By opting for a tour, you can have the entire itinerary organized for you, ensuring that you get to experience the best of the area with the assistance of a local guide. Although it may be a slightly more expensive option, it offers the most comprehensive experience.

By taxi / private car

Arranging a taxi or private car is another convenient option. This allows you to enjoy the comfort of door-to-door transportation between Hanoi and Hoang Su Phi while maintaining the freedom to explore at your own pace upon arrival. However, it is important to arrange your return car to Hanoi in advance, as finding transportation locally can be challenging once you are already in Hoang Su Phi.

By motorbike

For adventurous travelers, you have the option to travel by motorbike either on your own or with a local guide. However, it is important to note that a significant portion of the journey from Hanoi to Hoang Su Phi involves traveling on the main highway with heavy traffic, including cars, buses, and trucks.

Hanoi to Hoang Su Phi by local bus

The only option to reach Hoang Su Phi by public transportation is to take a bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang City. However, you will need to get off the bus at Bac Quang T junction and then take the local bus heading to Vinh Quang, the main town of Hoang Su Phi District.

It is important to note that this option is not recommended due to several factors. The local bus cannot be booked online, its reliability is questionable, and the drivers do not speak English, making it difficult to seek assistance. There is also a risk of missing the bus, waiting for a long time, or being unsure of the correct stop. As a result, not many foreign travelers choose this option, although it is the cheapest option available.

How to get around

Hoang Su Phi is primarily accessed via one main road that runs through the district, with several smaller roads branching off from it. It’s important to note that not all of these smaller roads are easily accessible by car. If you prefer to explore the area by vehicle, the best option is to travel by motorbike. You can either ride on the back of a motorbike with an experienced local guide or drive yourself, but this is only recommended for experienced drivers.

If motorbiking isn’t your preference, don’t worry. You can still explore Hoang Su Phi by car, which can take you to various destinations from where you can embark on beautiful hikes. In fact, trekking is the best way to explore the stunning countryside with rice paddy fields of Hoang Su Phi.

Trekking in Hoang Su Phi

Exploring the terraced rice fields of Hoang Su Phi on foot offers an unparalleled experience. Given the destination’s secluded nature and the lack of clear markers for the best viewing spots, embarking on a trek without a guide isn’t advised.

For those seeking the most picturesque views of the rice terraces, the months of July to September are optimal. In July, lush green fields stretch as far as the eye can see, transitioning to a golden hue by September, signaling the harvest season. However, these months also coincide with Ha Giang’s rainy season. It’s essential to come prepared: waterproof hiking shoes and a rain jacket are must-haves. Lightweight clothing is recommended to combat the heat. Don’t forget essentials like sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses to protect against the sun.

Preparation is key when planning a trek in Hoang Su Phi. Unlike more tourist-centric places like Sapa, arranging treks in this region can be more challenging. Fluent English-speaking guides are in short supply, and some might even need to travel from as far as Hanoi to assist. It’s advisable to plan and book well in advance to secure a guide for your adventure.

Eating, drinking & restaurants

Local dishes

Hoang Su Phi is home to a diverse range of ethnic groups, each offering unique and distinctive local dishes that showcase the rich culinary heritage of the region. While some of these dishes may not be suitable for everyone’s taste or preferences, they offer an authentic and memorable dining experience.

• Sticky Rice: Prepared by the La Chi ethnic group, this dish is made from the locally grown rice, creating a sticky and flavorful staple.
• Various Meats: Hoang Su Phi presents a range of meats, including goat and buffalo, as well as specialty dishes like Thang Co, made from the organs of cows or horses. The La Chi ethnic group even incorporates mice meat into their traditional cuisine.
• Nang Don Rice Wine: Produced by the Nung ethnic group in Nang Don commune, this rice wine is crafted using traditional brewing and distilling methods, resulting in a distinct and aromatic beverage.
• Fin Ho Tea: Derived from the Shan Tuyet tea trees, which thrive at high altitudes in the Phin Ho region, this tea offers a unique and refreshing flavor.
• Red Plum: A seasonal delicacy, the red plum ripens in early June and reaches full maturity in the middle of June and early July. It is cherished for its vibrant color and sweet juiciness, providing a delightful treat for those visiting during this period.

Restaurants

In Hoang Su Phi, the restaurants are predominantly local and do not offer modern-style dining or Western cuisine. If you are hesitant to try local restaurants or have specific dietary preferences, the best option is to dine at your homestay or lodge.

In addition, many homestays provide the opportunity to enjoy family dinners, where you can join the host family and other guests for a delightful experience of sharing a meal and savoring authentic local dishes.

Tips for visiting Hoang Su Phi

Respect the local culture: As you explore Hoang Su Phi, it’s important to show respect for the local ethnic communities and their way of life. Avoid standing in the rice fields, as they are the main source of livelihood for the people. Dress appropriately, seek permission before taking photos, and demonstrate respect for the local customs and traditions.

Hire a local guide: Due to its remote location and off-the-beaten-track nature, exploring Hoang Su Phi can be challenging without a guide. A local guide will not only help you navigate the area but also provide valuable insights into the region’s culture and history. They can assist with communication and ensure a smoother and more meaningful experience.

Visit during the right season: While you can visit Hoang Su Phi throughout the year, certain months offer the best opportunity to witness the stunning rice fields. Plan your trip during the rice harvest season, typically in September and October, to see the fields adorned in golden hues and witness the local communities engaging in the harvesting process.

Book accommodations in advance: If you’re planning to visit Hoang Su Phi during the rice harvest season, it is highly recommended to book accommodations well in advance. The limited number of lodging options in the area tends to fill up quickly during this peak period. If you visit outside the harvest season, you have a lot more flexibility and can book on shorter notice.

Prepare for an off-the-beaten-track experience: As you venture into Hoang Su Phi, be prepared for an immersive and remote experience. The area is relatively undeveloped, and accommodations, particularly homestays, offer basic amenities. Embrace the simplicity and tranquility of the surroundings, and embrace the opportunity to disconnect from the bustling world.

Pack the right gear: As the rice harvest season coincides with the rainy season, it’s advisable to pack a lightweight rain jacket or poncho. Additionally, sturdy walking shoes or boots are essential, as some areas may be muddy or uneven. Dress in light, breathable clothing to stay comfortable in the potentially hot weather. Don’t forget essentials such as sunscreen, insect repellent, and a refillable water bottle to stay hydrated during your explorations.

FAQ about Hoang Su Phi